How To Install A Mini

How to Install a Mini-Divide

It is possible to cut out the HVAC guys and install your own mini-split up so you are in the right place. Installing a mini split is an easy style to bring heating and cooling to a space. Mini splits can be ducted to multiple spaces or ductless. Today we are talking nigh a totally DIY ductless system from MRCOOL which is what I will be installing in my workshop. With the spray foam insulation that nosotros take this should be more than plenty to cool the building in the summer. Read on to get all the details of how the install went, start to end.

If you honey this stuff as much as we practise, yous might want to consider post-obit us on Instagram where we postal service sneak peeks and behind the scenes stuff in our stories. Also, did y'all know you can go tons of projects plans from all around the web when you lot follow us on Facebook and Pinterest!

Disclosure: This tutorial contains affiliate links and was sponsored by MRCOOL however the opinions are 100% my ain.

Full Project Video

Wanna see how it all came together? Check out the full projection video below and don't forget to subscribe on YouTube and then you won't miss future videos!

What Size Mini Split up Should yous Buy?

Beneath, I take put together what I think are appropriate sizes for each of the units. However, these sizings are based on platonic atmospheric condition and there are a lot of other variables that should be considered. For case, if you lot take loftier ceilings, poor insulation, and/or alive in an surface area that experiences extreme temperatures, you will more than likely need to scale upwardly the size of your mini split.

Conditioned Space	Unit size	Cost
up to 500 sq ft	12k Btu Bundle	~$1,180
500 – 1,000 sq ft	18k Btu Bundle	~$1,360
i,000 – 1,500 sq ft	24k Btu Packet	~$1,540
1,500 – 2,000 sq ft	36k Btu Bundle	~$2,550

Time needed:2 days.

Installing a mini split 100% on your own can exist washed with the new DIY arrangement from MR Cool. This is an instance of how nosotros installed the 36k Btu bundle in our detached workshop, the Rogue HQ.

Installing a Solid Base for the Outdoor Unit

A solid mounting area is needed for the outdoor unit. We decided to pour our own concrete pad for the unit of measurement which was 2ft 10 4ft. This took about 6 80lb bags of concrete. Nosotros first removed the elevation soil, then framed out the pad and leveled the frame, followed by mixing the concrete, pouring into the frame and using a lath to screed it flat, filling all the low spots. Once the concrete started to set a bit, I troweled information technology smooth. Unfortunately, the domestic dog walked over it not once, but twice. Luckily there is a big unit sitting on height of the paw prints.
Another option is to attach a mounting bracket to the side of the building. Still, nosotros needed to get it every bit low as possible due to a window higher up it.
Roughing in the Electrical

Luckily, we still had admission to all the interior walls so we pulled a 10 AWG, 3 conductor wire with footing from the panel, through the interior walls to the location we were going to install the outdoor unit.

So, we drilled a hole in the exterior wall, and attached weathertight conduit to a thirty amp fused disconnect box which is where we connected the end of the x/3 wire to.
Mounting the Indoor Unit of measurement

Now it was time to move inside and mount the indoor unit. Since we have no drywall I demand to attach a 1/ii″ piece of plywood to the studs. This piece was fabricated slightly smaller than the footprint of the unit of measurement and then that when drywall is installed information technology would fit right behind it.

Then, the mounting bracket was leveled and screwed to the plywood and studs. Next, I cut out a spot for the lines to run, fastened the drain line to the unit of measurement and mounted the indoor unit in identify.
Routing the Piping and Drain

In well-nigh other cases this unit of measurement would be mounted to an exterior wall and the lines would be routed through a hole in that wall and outside. However, since we have access to the walls and take some expressionless infinite behind the unit to route the excess lines we were able to have the lines exit the edifice correct where they need to be.

The package come up with a cylindrical sleeve that can be cut down to length and used to seal the hole off nicely. The lines are and then ran through this hole and outside to the exterior unit.

The drain line is also routed through this hole, yet, extra care must exist taken to make certain the drain line is pitched appropriately and drains freely with no traps in the line. Since my line was mostly ran on the interior of the building I needed to insulate it to make sure the line didn't sweat.
Sealing the Exterior Wall Penetration

After finalizing the routing I and so sealed up around the sleeve and inside of the sleeve with spray foam insulation to preclude any outside are from getting in.
Installing the Outdoor Unit

The outdoor unit of measurement is already in identify but we needed to make sure it didn't move around so we anchored it to the slab using Tapcons with the safety vibration pads in-between the unit and the concrete.
Wiring the Outdoor Unit

Within that white sleeve there is a black electrical line that runs back to the indoor unit. That gets connected to the outdoor unit of measurement and provide ability to the indoor unit. There is a white connecter and a ground wire that are used to do and then.

The power to the outdoor unit from the xxx amp disconnect is ran using a preassembled liquid tight conduit. The wiring is already there and it can be cut to length. The crimson and black wires are both hot wires and will connect to the L1 and L2 lines using yellowish crimp on fork connectors. Then, all that'south left is the footing wire that gets connected to the metal plate beneath the connections.
Connecting the Refrigerant Lines

The refrigerant lines go threaded onto the connections. They are both different sizes, and so you lot tin can't screw information technology up. Once they are tighten down you can so remove the caps on the side of the lines to expose an allen wrench cardinal that gets turned until it stops to release the refrigerant in the lines and pressurize the system.

This is the part of the system the differentiates it from other mini-splits. With nearly other units the refrigerant is added later the fact using a system that most professionals take. Having the refrigerant in the lines and being able to pressurize your own system makes this process totally DIY.
Inserting the Fuses

Now the 30 amp fuses tin exist inserted into the fused 30 amp disconnect. Practice note that the fuses do non come with the disconnect. They have to be purchased separately.
Bringing the Wire into the Panel

Lastly, you'll need to tie the wire into the panel. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, past all means, rent a professional person. I am not a licensed electrician and don't claim to be. Too note that the photos beneath show a panel that is currently under construction so there are a lot of wires that are not tied in yet.

To starting time, the main breaker (big switch at the acme) needs to be turned off, the confront of the panel can then exist removed and the insulation should be removed from the wire later on it enters the panel.
Connecting the Basis and Common Wires

Then, the ground wire gets stripped and tied into the ground bar. This is usually towards the outside of the panel. While the white wire (mutual wire) gets tied into the common bar which is usually near the breakers.
Installing the Breaker

Now for this breaker we will be using a 30 amp double pole breaker. This means that two wires are hot. So ii 110 volt wires will travel to the unit of measurement and provide a combined voltage of 220. Therefore, both the red and the black wires get stripped and tied into the breaker.

The break so gets inserted into an open slot on the console. Not all panels are the same so yours may wait a little different.

Once you lot go the breaker in you tin then supercede the face of the panel and flip the main breaker back on. This should complete the install.
Adding the WIFI Adapter

This is pretty straight frontward, there is a usb adaptor that gets plugged into the dorsum of the front console. Flip up the front end console to expose it and plug it in. One time you run through the steps in the app you lot'll have the unit connect to your wifi which will allow you lot to gear up schedules, monitor the required maintenance, and enable "follow me" fashion which brand you lot unit aware if yous are in the building or not and oestrus or cool accordingly.

Conclusion

Honestly, I was a little intimidated when I got started. The wiring freaked me out a piffling because I had never installed a breaker before and the overall procedure was totally new to me and so I was learning every bit I go. That being said, there's actually not much to information technology. After the install, I was amazed past just how like shooting fish in a barrel it was. Even the wiring and console work wasn't bad at all. With a piddling try you can save yourself a ton of money past installing this unit on your own.

About The Author

Jamison Rantz

I'm a Christian, father, husband and sometime aerospace engineer. In my spare time I similar to engineer furniture for the weekend DIY'er like myself. In other words, I write plans for awesome looking furniture that are so piece of cake it will blow your mind! (No woodworking experience required.)